SUMMARY: Streaking SPARCPrinter

From: Bharathan Gnanasundram (
Date: Wed Nov 09 1994 - 03:55:15 CST

Sorry for the late summary.

The following is my original question, and the best
reply which I've received from Michael Baumann.

>The sparc printer is putting two vertical lines in the middle
>of the paper, as the paper comes out of the printer. I changed
>new drum, toner cartriges and also cleaned the fuser rollers
>using alcohol but the problem still persists. The fuser wick
>gets too much toner on that spot(in the middle) very quick.
>Do you think that the fuser rollers need to be changed? If so, is
>it possible to buy those and fix it by myself instead of sending the
>printer for repair which will definitely cost more than $500.
>Thanks for any help in this regard.
Here you go...something I wrote up after replacing my fuser roller:

>From Tue Nov 30 14:17:58 1993
Subject: SUMMARY:Streaking SPARCPrinter (SPRN-400) Solution

This is going out in the hopes that it will be archived.

For those of you with SPARCPrinters (SPRN-400) that have started
streaking - there is a solution. But it is only for the mechanically
inclined as it involves a not insignificant disassembly of the beast.

As has been noted before, the streaking comes from the failure of the
Heat Roll, the upper roller visable from the paper exit, the one wiped
by the felt. The problem was Sun would only sell you a reconditioned
printer, not just the heat roll.

The good news is that SunExpress is now selling parts, including the
heat roll < Huzzah! > (1-800-USE-SUNX)

For those interested - I will list the part number(s) and steps I needed
take to install the replacement Roller. Note that there are 2 Heat Rods
that go thru the Heat Roll - If you are not REAL CAREFUL, you will get
to buy these too. They are ~13 inch long quarz/halogen lamps. Note that
these steps are from memory - I went thru this today. Also note that you
do this on your own, at your own risk. Who knows? I may have really screwed
something up! ( But we have printed ~200 pages since without a problem so....)

This took me around 4 hours, but I got to figure out what to disconnect,
and so forth. ( And no, I didn't break the heat rod.)

Part Numbers:

 #811-1318 - 22K97044 Heat Roll $109.00
        if you screw up:
 #811-1416 - 126K95851 Heat Rod without Spade $47.00
 #811-1417 - 126K95861 Heat Rod with Spade $47.00

Tools Required:
Needle nose pliers,
Small blade standard Screwdriver
12" Slip Joint Pliers (AKA Channel-locks)
Latex gloves

Convention: Front is the side with the LED status display and paper tray.

1) Remove toner and drum cartridges - store the drum in a DARK place.

2) Remove the plastic cover on the swing arm that contains the drum and
   toner - there are 2 screws - one in front, and one on the left side.
   This can be tricky as you must work around the release lever.

3) Remove the case - 4 screws this time. Two in the back, two in front
   behind the flip down door.

4) Remove the upper fuser assembly cover - 2 screws. there is another
   plate under this one, we deal with it later.

5) Disconnect the Single wire spade lug, fan and exit sensors.

6) Remove the exit roller assembly, one screw in front, then CAREFULLY
   pry one of the lugs out of the pivot.

7) Remove 2 springs in front that hold up pressure roller.

8) Remove fan.

9) Disconnect heat rod molex connectors ( under fan)

      for the next few steps don your gloves, body oils can wreak major
      havok on quartz lamps! Also, use extreme caution if,you break a heat
      rod, you have a down printer till the replacement comes in!
10) Gently flip the lower fuser assembly cover ( the one exposed in step 4)
    to the right onto a box or something to support it at the level of the
    wires going into the Heat Roll.

11) Remove the left gear cover (box like - 1 screw, slide forward to release
                               hook on other side.)
   carefully manuver the slot in the case around the heat rod wires. This one
   stumped me for a while, the cover has a T cut-out to allow you to remove
   around the wires.

12) Remove the right heat rod cover, this is round, and swings away.

13) GENTLY pull the heat rods out the right side of the printer, pulling
    the molex connector and cables thru the heat roll. Place them in a
    safe place.

--- You can lose the gloves for a while now ----

14) Remove retaining clips on both ends of heat rod.

15) Remove E-clip holding small white idler gear on left.

16) Remove brown drive gear from heat roll.

17) Gorilla time. If you examine the Heat Rod closely you will find
    plastic(?) inserts into the bearing assembly. Using the channel-locks
    to turn the insert carefully work the right insert off, kind of a turn
    and pull method. Do the same for the left. This suckers were tight to
    remove, but easy to put back on.

Reverse these steps to re-assemble. As a hint, you may want to put some kind
of pull string in the heat roll to assist you in re-installing the heat rods.
Remember - any time you handle the heat rods, use gloves!

Good Luck.

Michael Baumann
Electus Technology Inc. / Loma Linda University Medical Center
San Bernardino, California. (909)799-8308 |Internet:

Many Thanks to the following people for their replies.

1. Michael Baumann
2. Larry Ash
3. Vikram
4. Dennis Schwindt
5. Dan Penrod
6. Jeff Cummings
7. Joe Welfeld


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